Salkantay and Machu Picchu: Part 1

The Salkantay Trek

Having met up with our most excellent amigos Clayton and Jenny in Cusco, we set about organizing our Machu Picchu experience. The famous and mysterious Incan ruins are fairly remote with no road access whatsoever which makes getting to them a bit trickier than most destinations this popular. Now it probably goes without saying, but we’re not exactly into the whole planning and booking months in advance thing, so the Inca Trail was quickly crossed of the list. We could just take a train there and back, but that seemed a bit boring. We do love the mountains though, and with that idea in mind we decided to tackle the Salkantay Trail. (more…)

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Soaking It Up In Middle Peru

Before heading to Lima we turned up an unmarked, very rough dirt road about 40 km south of Huaraz. The road looks to go absolutely nowhere; we pass a loan straw hut housing a shepherd looking after his flock of high altitude sheep. After about 30 minutes we reach the top of the ascent which opens into desolate, rolling meadows and valleys as far as we can see. There, in the middle of this harsh, 14,200 foot environment sits a rock climber refugio, and just behind it an unlikely labyrinth of volcanic rock juts from the earth. Welcome to sport climbing paradise in Peru: Hatun Machay (click for climber specific info). (more…)

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Peru

Huaraz

Los Pinos – Right off the road between Caraz and Huaraz is a little bolted crag hosting 8 easy routes. Nothing to write home about, but if you’re driving by and want to clip a few bolts you can climb all 8 routes and have lunch in an hour or two. The rock goes into the shade in the afternoon which would be the time to swing by.

The little crag is behind the van by the bushes. Six ~5.9s, two 10s
The little crag is behind the van by the bushes. Six ~5.9s, two 10s

Los Olivos – We walked over to the crag from Huaraz (about a 30 minute walk west of town) to take a look. “Nothing to see here… move along.”

Hatun Machay – 40km South of Huaraz you will find paradise. I wish I had known just how awesome the place was so we could have spent much, much more time there. At kilometer marker 111 you will see a little rock cairn and a dirt road, nothing more. Take the rutted dirt road up and over the hill and you will run right into the incredibly badass refugio just for climbers. It’s 20 soles to camp, 30 if you want a dorm bed. They have everything you need to be comfy at 14,200 feet: excellent solar shower, full kitchen, fireplace, and they even provide quality topos for the routes. The rock is excellent and well bolted. Bring as much skin on your tips as you can, you’re going to need it.

The refugio. Plenty of tent spots, solar shower, lodge with fireplace, kitchen, and dorm beds.
The refugio. Plenty of tent spots, solar shower, lodge with fireplace, kitchen, and dorm beds.
100s of routes, tons in the 5.10 - 5.12 range
100s of routes, tons in the 5.10 – 5.12 range
A climber chasing the sunset
A climber chasing the sunset
Complimentary topos provided by the refugio
Complimentary topos provided by the refugio

Cusco

Pachan

This spot is mostly for tour companies to take people out for their first time. There are about 5 or 6 bolted lines mostly 5.9. I wouldn’t bother. There is a better spot close to town that we’ll list next.

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Sector Patacancha

This has some short, but fun lines on it. It’s well bolted. The crag is at about 13,000 feet. Around 4-5 5.10s and 3-4 routes in the 5.11 range. To reach this spot continue past the Quinta Lala overlander spot, hang a left on the dirt road across from the ruins and drive about 10-15 minutes till you see the formation on the top of the hill. Alternatively it’s about an hour-and-a-half walk from town.

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