Elevation!

Van repaired, showered and well rested from our stay at the car wash, we set off for Volcan Ceboruco. It was pretty wild. First we drove through Jala, a tiny town in which every single person that resided there must have been on the main cobble stone road leading to the volcano as we drove through. Having endured the maximum of awkward stares possible, we finally started heading out of the town and up towards the volcano. We followed the extremely steep single lane (if that) cobble stone road around its meandering bends and blind, switchback-like curves wondering with each one when we’d hit some impassible obstacle and have to drive it in reverse for who knows how long. The van prevailed though and soon we were at the “visitor center.”

Perhaps no one comes here anymore unless they have an outdated guide book, and perhaps that is why we were on the receiving end of so many stares. Regardless, we were the only people on the entire volcano that evening. It was a pleasure having the place to ourselves and amplified the feeling of solitude already generated by being so far from home.

It also reminded us of home in many ways: similar elevation, hiking trails, climate and fauna – it was comfortable and I felt a pull that made it difficult to leave. We camped on top of the volcano that night and it was very peaceful. I shot a lot of video for some future projects that I hope to share with you all eventually.

Next stop was Guadalajara. Our buddy who we met in Sayulita had recommended that we find a climbing gym there called Punto Muerto and locate the owner, El Richie. Guadalajara is by far the largest city we have been to in Mexico with a population of around 4.5 million if one includes the surrounding metropolitan areas. After some interesting big city driving efforts – ones littered with kamikaze topes, ever-narrowing single lane allies, and numerous other never before encountered van hazards, we pulled up to the gym and were surprised, for a Wednesday, how packed the place was.

It turned out that their was a bouldering comp there that night. El Richie was super busy running the show and so we hung out with the local climbers and watched the comp. Rock climbers form, by far, one of the nicest and coolest communities we have ever had the pleasure to be a part of, and it was certainly no different in Mexico. The excitement shared for the sport and the generosity towards those traveling to do it were reciprocated to we strangers as if we had never left home. Richie let us park our van and camp inside the gated outdoor gym/skate park for our entire stay in Guadalajara. He also took us to three different climbing areas with his friends and others in town to climb. It was a good thing too – whereas most climbing in the US is pretty straight forward and well documented, I’m not sure we would have made it to any of the places we went had a local not taken us. But once we got there, the climbing was most definitely excellent. We began at El Diente and had a fun warm up day by ourselves close to town.

After some climbers from Mexico City joined us camping at Punto Muerto we all ventured out to a trad area referred to as El Escalon. The climbing was fantastic and consisted of splitter basalt with several dozen, very featured aretes and dihedrals stretching across the hillside.

The last spot we visited was dubbed El Cuajo. It was great climbing with long, very modern sport routes up bullet rock. Tips shredded and fully back into climbing mode we picked the brains of our fellow campers from Mexico City and departed Guadalajara armed with more local beta, places to stay down the road, and several new friends. If you are ever in Guadalajara be sure to contact El Richie, check out his very awesome gym, and be sure to go out and climb the great rock and routes they host!

Next we went to the highly recommended city of Guanajuato and were pleasantly surprised to arrive in a very artsy, colonial style city set amidst rolling hills below a beautiful protrusion of cliffs including La Bufa – a much talked about sport climbing area. After driving down impossibly windy roads, ridiculous round-a-bouts, and endless branching tunnels we parked the van and set out on foot. The city was beautiful, the food was great, and after a good nights sleep stealth camped who knows where, we had an absolutely killer day of climbing at La Bufa the next day!

As we were leaving we bumped into a mountain biker who spoke English as well as Spanish and German. We asked him if he knew where we could obtain or purchase a much needed shower in town and the next thing we know we’re in Robert and Tanya’s beautiful home on the hill opposite the cliffs drinking wine and soaking in what was by far the hottest shower we’ve each had since leaving the states (a solar-powered shower I might add). My only regret was not hanging out with them a bit longer but we were starving from a big day of climbing and didn’t want to impose for more than they had already generously offered. They owned a restaurant in town and gave us amazing directions to the city parking garage. We were surprised and somewhat proud that despite the maze-like layout of the roads we were able to go directly through the mysterious cobble stone corridors and tunnels to the parking garage on our first try. Then we realized, as is usually the case, that the van exceeded the parking garage’s height limit. A one way street followed by a tunnel with multiple different tunnels within it later and we were completely lost again, a familiar feeling in Guanajuato. We never made it back to that part of town and ended up leaving the next day for Bernal but it was a great place, we met some very awesome and generous people, and highly recommend the interesting sport climbing there.

We left Guanajuato and headed for Queretaro. We ended up getting there but in basically the completely opposite direction we had planned. The more I get used to driving in Mexico the more fun it becomes. You have to learn to go with the flow though, else you’ll find yourself very stressed out as I was during earlier parts of the trip before a change in perspective fashioned it into something more enjoyable. Quick note:

Miles driven to date by Eric:  ~6000
Miles driven to date by Niccole: 0

Now, to be fair, I prefer driving and Niccole doesn’t. It’s the perfect road trip pairing actually. We go together like… clowns and crying babies!

Queretaro was a blast! We arrived on the Friday evening that they were celebrating Mexico’s 150th anniversary! What luck! We were stealth camping on some busy street in the middle of the central area and next thing we know we’re hearing bands and fireworks and craziness. Having already explored the city and its amazing food, we ventured back out and witnessed an amazing series of marches and firework displays. And Niccole and I both agree: Mexican firework shows are much more fun than their American counterparts. We were wandering down an alley when we stumbled across several steel drums that after a while we realized were massive unattended mortars for later in the program. When things did finally ignite, smoke and sparks were a very real part of the experience. We marveled at our perfect timing, meandered back to the van, and left for more climbing the next morning.

More hilarious way-finding and laughs later we arrive at La Pena de Bernal. Actually, you can see its main attraction before you even arrive and we were excited to see a monolith so grandiose and looming. Turns out it is the third largest monolith in the world.

We romped all 350 meters right up its center to the top! Hoards of school children laughed and yelled to us. While there was no register on the summit, it was complete with standard crosses, candles, and other typical religious imagery.

I must say, the climb was very well protected and quite easy. It was 5.fun from top to bottom. Having the most-awesome Captain Kirk climbing the mountain video stuck in my head for the whole climb only added to the enjoyment. Envelope the mountain; make love to the mountain… Thanks to Mike and Amanda for turning me onto this gem over beers one night in their old cabin!

We camped in the monolith parking lot and no sooner than we had eaten dinner (which proceeded an interesting encounter with a very temperamental butcher) we heard incredibly loud music and were prompted, yet again, to go exploring.

The synchronized water and light show at the base of Bernal was awesome and we finally went to bed feeling lucky to have been in the right spot at the right time once again. We awoke to very loud music, people drinking, and very loud gunfire spread out across the town – apparently the celebrations were not yet over! It not even being eight o’clock in the morning yet, we put pedal to the medal hoping to achieve the lurking Mexico City if possible but instead ended up in the splendid city of Tequisquiapan for more celebrating – and more importantly to us: Internet. We have been warned by almost every Mexican person we’ve met about Mexico City, police and safety being the paramount concern. But, we have a secure and safe place to park the van and stay complements of Maria whom we met with Cesar, Hugo and Jorge back at Punto Muerto in Guadalajara. But, having no Internet access in Bernal, we opted for a lay up to see if we could better improve our odds of having a successful Mexico City rendevous.

And so here we sit, watching yet even more celebrating go down in the bustling centro of Tequisquiapan while sipping cervesas makina and doing the whole digital thing.

Bam. More to come, hopefully post Mexico City awesomeness! Really looking forward to climbing and hanging out with our new friends!