We stopped in Puebla between Mexico City and Oaxaca. It was a nice way to break up the drive. We were warned to get out of Mexico City before everyone cashed their pay checks and headed out to clog the highways. The drive went well and we laughed when walking around Puebla noticing line after line at all of the ATMs – not only was it payday, but it was Valentine’s day as well! We had an awesome pizza right on the square in centro and departed the next morning. Oaxaca was very nice and one of those places that you’d recommend to anyone followed by “try the mole and eat everything you can.” We spent three nights there enjoying the town, food, and beer.
Our kick ass stealth spot was transformed into a construction site right in the middle of our last night causing an impromptu move to a less concrete-pumping-truck-congested street a few blocks away. Being the van veterans that we are, we didn’t even bat an eye. Niccole didn’t even get out of bed.
Leaving Oaxaca you have two choices for heading east, north or south. We opted for north. Our first excitement of the day occurred right out of town. I knew it would happen eventually, I think I even dreamed about it, or at least day dreamed about it while driving, but I finally missed a tope, completely, and jumped it going about 60 kph! It was not a small one either. The van literally caught air, as did everything in it. I’m so proud of the van for not breaking in half or breaking at all for that matter. Thankfully, for once, I was actually going the speed limit, something rare for any driver in Mexico, foreign or not. Honestly, I’m surprised it took this long – when they’re unsigned and the exact same shade and color as the regular road, they can be incredibly difficult to identify. No damage done – with each passing mile I have new found trust and respect for the Craggin’ Wagon. Really, it’s a beast and keeps treating us well considering what we ask of it. In reward for valiant effort and performance in adverse conditions, we treated it to a fresh oil change yesterday. Its purring like a kitten – or rather Jaguar now.
After jumping the tope we drove about one hundred kilometers on a very steep, incredibly curvy road in mostly decent repair. It was slow going. We kept gaining and gaining altitude. We even stopped in a forest of firs to plant our dying Xmas tree purchased way back in San Diego. The climate was very dry and reminded us of home. We stopped near the top and shot some photos on the lonely road where we were mostly by ourselves.
Much to our surprise, the top was actually right around the corner and not only was the view stunning, but in an instant we passed into an entirely different climate. It seemed we had only to blink while cresting out the top before we were asking ourselves how we ended up in such a massive, humid jungle!
We descended much farther than we had risen on the previous side – more slow going, at least another hundred kilometers of steep curves. We stopped for lunch in Tuxtepec and then pressed on getting all the way to Sayula just in time to catch a pretty camp Pemex sunset and get some very good, cheap seafood before falling asleep, fan cranked.
The remainder of the drive to Palenque was typical toll road followed by the typical single-lane, double-yellow passing madness (when there are lines at all) which we’re quite accustomed too now. After circling through the town of Palenque we opted to head to El Panchan where we caught wind of a little gypsy/traveller outpost just outside Palenque’s famous namesake ruins. It was indeed as advertised, more of a commune than a camp. We crashed in the van for free, drank 25 peso Negro Modelo’s and wandered around the various pathways and small rivers that make up the intricate and unique little traveler’s getaway.
After another fan-cranked, insanely humid night we awoke early, had a big breakfast, and headed to the Palenque Ruins. I’m sure it will wear off as the humidity wears on, but the jungle is very new and novel to me right now, so if you see a lot of pictures of vines and whatnot… well, I just can’t help myself and I’m holding the camera most of the time. Hopefully they’ll at least be cool pics! Jungle setting aside, the ruins were pretty awesome! The people running parking scams and selling stuff were kind of annoying, but overall it was really interesting. We saw our first monkey, a Howler Monkey, and the kid in me burst out as I chased fairly large iguanas across the open grassy spaces in between the temples, shooting video and laughing like a maniac. The guidebook warned that locals would be selling mushrooms of the hallucinogenic variety on the side of the road and indeed, we spoke with a guy who lives there and described his dehydrator to us with great pride in perfect, rapid English… remnants of his New York City heritage no doubt.
There were three potential routes from Palenque to Tenosique. We identified what looked like the shortest and Google Maps confirmed by recommending the same. It did indeed turn out to be fast and the roads were fine, but the part where a small town’s worth of people had the road blockaded and demanded 50 pesos “compensation” to pass was far from cool. They had a gigantic section of tree dragged over one lane and a long 2X4 with 4″ tall nails attached to a rope on both sides manned by a person on either side of the other lane. This was not a gringo only fee as they demanded the same of Mexican’s passing in either direction as well. We were told it was compensation for someone. They proceeded to show us a very bad black-and-white print out of what looked like a guy missing his leg? We really have no idea what the deal was, but rather than hang around and protest it seemed the wisest course of action was to eat it and move on as the locals were doing. We payed the toll and the guys manning the nails pulled them out of the road and we were on our way. Not a heart warming experience but no harm came of it. We’ll be sticking to main roads in Guatemala if this is any sign of things to come.
We made it Tenosique around noon and took advantage of the remainder of the day to stock up on groceries, water, and get our boarder crossing stuff in order. This is our last and final stop in Mexico before venturing into the unknown jungles of Guatemala! We’re excited, sticky from the intense humidity, and a bit nervous. Next stop Flores, and possibly the ruins of Tikal. Adios North America, it’s been real to say the least!
PS – Just noticed that two of our three hubcaps are missing now… theft or high velocity tope jumping? I’m going with the latter!
We are also pretty certain it was high velocity tope jumping, having been there, and done that! 😉