{"id":272,"date":"2014-02-04T20:09:43","date_gmt":"2014-02-04T20:09:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cragkungfu.com\/cragginwagon\/?p=272"},"modified":"2016-02-02T19:56:09","modified_gmt":"2016-02-02T19:56:09","slug":"la-buena-ola","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cragkungfu.com\/cragginwagon\/la-buena-ola\/","title":{"rendered":"La Buena Ola!"},"content":{"rendered":"

About a billion years ago, the first multicellular life existed on our little blue dot. I can understand the unit of measurement known as a \u2018billion\u2019 in a mathematical way, but it boggles my mind when speaking of it in terms of years. I suppose that\u2019s because we humans think about years mostly in terms of, or relative to, human history and individuals\u2019 lives. It\u2019s not until you talk about science that you have to consider years beyond the existence of human ones, and the Earth\u2019s geological time is beyond massive. Anyways, it took another 6 or 7\u00a0million<\/i>\u00a0years for something besides a plant to finally crawl out of the ocean and exist on land. To put that in perspective, modern humans have been around for a mere 200 thousand years. So, for 6.5 million years things have been evolving in the ocean. 6.5 million years of things with sharp teeth, stingers and the ability to breath underwater.<\/p>\n

\"seamonster\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"badwater_nessie\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Things ate or got eaten until finally, it became advantageous for something to escape those brutal and dangerous waters. And a whole bunch a millions of years later, here we are, the apex of evolution, the modern man \u2013 able to create the freaking Internet, go to Starbucks, walk on the Moon, flush a toilet, whatever. Then, behold, circa 1980 (okay, exactly 1980) I am born! Yes, you can applaud. I too agree that it was awesome, but that is not the point of this recapitulation so stop getting sidetracked! So, what do myself and those decades of people before me do? We actually go back into that friggin\u2019 creepy, dangerous, dark ocean that we escaped from literally millions of years ago!!!<\/p>\n

\"M8DJAWS<\/a><\/p>\n

\"meg-pic-scary-shit\"<\/a><\/p>\n

That place where all the things that can sting and bite and eat are! The place where things that can eat us have been evolving for literally, exponentially larger periods of times than our own species has existed!!! Why? Why would anyone just swim out into those giant, crashing waves with a tiny board that floats???\u00a0It\u2019s because surfing is that fun. It\u2019s that awesome and that fun and that is why.<\/p>\n

My friend Chip, sent me this video of the massive swells that have been hitting Hawaii “recently.”<\/p>\n